DIY Tank Monitor --> Tank Controller chat

OK. Been doing some research and double checks.

The IP Inrush Current of these ballasts is 45A and the normal current draw is 0.54A.

The Triac's are a BTA06-400 and can handle an Current Surge Peak of 64A and Irms of 6A for 360 degrees (one cycle). No problems here I think.

The ballast specs sheet recommend no more than 8 ballasts per 10A fuse.

It also appears from the schematics of the AC Opto out board that if the signal line was disconnect, it will go high and turn off the AC device.

As for the grounding, I'll have to some research into that one.

I haven't seen those plugboards you mention. Why not make one? :D Although having said that, it probably would be easier and cheaper to buy.

Again, refering to spec sheets for the T5, they recommend a "burn-in" period of 50 hours for the tubes before you start dimming them. I think this is to ensure their rated output for the life span of the tube.

DIYjunkie, I'll send you that other info when I get home tonight.

Here's my tank controller. At the moment it is only controlling the lighting but all I have to do is run the wires for the T5 ballast dimming, locate the temp probe inside the tank and mount the box.

So far the program code simulates sunrise, sunset, switches in a third ballast for additional lighting during the day for a five hour period and controls the tanks temperature and display the times, date and temp nicely on an LCD.

And it's only running at 4Mhz.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bald_noggin

Here's my tank controller. At the moment it is only controlling the lighting but all I have to do is run the wires for the T5 ballast dimming, locate the temp probe inside the tank and mount the box.

So far the program code simulates sunrise, sunset, switches in a third ballast for additional lighting during the day for a five hour period and controls the tanks temperature and display the times, date and temp nicely on an LCD.

And it's only running at 4Mhz.

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Nice work!

I like the danger high voltage signs. What are the 3 connectors for on the lhs of the picture?

Are you planning on adding some sort of menu/button system? I'm assuing at the moment if you want to change any parameters like light on & off times, or setting the date & time you re-program at the moment?

The three connectors are for the one-wire devices. The DS2890's that control the dimming (1-10V control), are going to be located with in the enclosure. The third one is for the DS18B20 temp sensor.

At the moment, any changes to the system do require a re-program of the microcontroller. I'll be starting (actually porting over) the code for a F877 that will have a 4x4 keypad interface. I had already coded such a routine to accept input and reset all the necessary data ona F877 so it shouldn't take too long to get it going.

One good thing about the F877 controller board, it's the same size as the F628 so it's a striaght drop in. Only bugger is, it does not have an LCD connector. Sigh, a small sacrifice.

BI and DIYJ,

How did you encapsulate your DS18B20 devices?

It's the last thing I need to do to my little project but it has kept me stumped at the moment.

Cheers,
Col.

If you mean for water proofing - Jaycar sell a "dual wall" heatshrink tube that is basically heatshrink lined with heat sensitive glue (I think it's the same as hot glue used in glue guns).

Using a heat gun I shrunk one layer on focusing on the the solder joint(s) at the base of the sensor, then used a second layer covering past the sensor and a few cm back along the wire for safety. I also squeezed the open end past the sensor shut while it was still hot to seal it (*edit - don't use your bare fingers!) . Works like a charm and is really simple to do.

I've had it submersed in ice water, and boiling water when I was attempting to test it's accuracy and I haven't had an issue :wink:

I just used a piece of 1/4" tube...see page 2. I managed to leave a little of the chip protruding out the end of the tube.

I've just received my ORP probe so thats my weekend project, fitting it inline with my filter and connecting it up to my spare A/D channel.

Cheers for that guys. :wink:

I have reinstalled my controller with the dimming lines attached but not with the temp sensor yet.

The big test will now be at 9.30 tonight as that is the time the lights should start to dim! :D

I do have some of that glue impregnated heatshrink but it is actually for a 50 pair telephone cable so it's about 30mm across! A bit too big. I didn't think Jaycar would have it but that will teach me for not looking.

Thanks again.

I'll report back later on when (fingers crossed) my lights dim!

Col.

Well, it worked!!!!! second time around :roll:

I forgot to link the RH pin of the DS2890 to the side panel connector so it really never was attached to the ballast. :evil: So I quickly grabbed the soldering iron and rectified my problem and then reprogrammed the microcontroller to switch off at a later time and it worked. :D

What I did notice though, it is not linear. It actually appears to be logrithmic. I'll have to double check the data sheets on it. For the first 8-10 minutes it appeared that nothing had happened but disconnecting the dimming cable proved that it was working as the light jumped back up to full brightness. The last 3-4 minutes the lights dimmed quickly!

I'll just have to implement a different aglorithm that's all. Should take about 30 minutes to 1 hour to implement.

Not tonight though. Too tired. Will have it done tomorrow.

When you get adventurous enough to do this BI, drop me a line. I'll share my code and tips with you. :wink:

Great new's...you can sit an admire your work every night now as your lights dim....

It will be some time before I get T5 lights. I'm still hopeful for a new Juwel 450 curved tank however they do not have T5 lights and cannot retrofit. Juwel lights just span across the aquarium (sit on the two far edges) and there is plastic filler pieces in between the lights. There are three dual T8's across the top. Thus the lights are fully water proof and they could fall into the tank as you can easily lift them off the top of the tank. Spend 2,500 on a tank that doesn't have T5, I must be crazy !

I would like to be able to turn them on in the morning...my lights come on for 1 hour 7:30 - 8:30 so I can feed them before I go to work. being able to turn them on from 7:30 and bring the light up to 25% sound great, don't know if the fish will appreciate it though however it is a cool feature..

I know when I had a moon light (bright LED) on after the lights went out the tank looked great just lit up ever so slightly.

Had to search back to a post when I was using a PICAXE controller however this was my interface. Don't laugh it was a picture frame but worked OK. I was going to mount it in the door of my aquarium however ended up down the web path.

http://www.discusforums.com/forum/vi...ikea&&start=20

My current thought is to get one of those 7" touchscreen LCD, place it on the tank and show pictures but also become the web interface for my NSLU2.