Wow :shock: , thanks for all of that!
My weekend has been pretty busy also - I had to squeeze some margharita's in last night :lol: :lol: , I probably wont get much done until later in the week, but you've given me plenty of info to use when I do...
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Wow :shock: , thanks for all of that!
My weekend has been pretty busy also - I had to squeeze some margharita's in last night :lol: :lol: , I probably wont get much done until later in the week, but you've given me plenty of info to use when I do...
The post above is becoming my how-to page so I have just kept updating the content tonight. May move it to my website or the owfs example site later.
Hi Rob,
Here's where I'm up to.
Just need to mount the Box, LCD, install power points to the opto isolator board and wire in 1-10V dimming lines.
AC output 4 controls heater, output 3 controls substrate heating, output 2 controls 3rd lighting ballast and output 1 controls 1 and 2 lighting ballasts.
Bottom left hand corner is the temp sensor and two DS2890 digital pots for the T5 dimming. (all are white on top with dots so I can keep track of their serial numbers)
Like how you used sockets for testing your 1wire devices, I must install one on my junction box so that I can easily test a device without soldering it. You gotta luv those futurlec isolated output boards, soo cheap for what you get and I think the AC one also provides zero crossing switch functions.
I assume your base plate in your enclosure is non conductive. Are you going to just install 240VAC receptacles on the lid of your enclosure. ?
I was only switching 24VDC with the futurlec relay board however I used the first relay contact to provide the positive 24VDC to the other relays contacts.. This was so that I had to turn on two outputs for the device to turn on. I was concerned if my 1wire had a communication glitch and for some reason one output turned on I did not want to open a valve and flood the place ! Thus two outputs have to be turned on for a valve to open. This will also ptect me if a relay contact fails closed.
Great work... How do you DI into the system. I assume you will need a couple of push buttons.
rob
The AC Opto board are zero crossing which is a good little feature.
The base plate is a fibreglass board just like the ones used for PCB's but without the copper.
For the AC sockets, I'm installing these: http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView...Max=&SUBCATID=
They will be installed on the bottom of the case. (below the AC opto board terminals)
I have also purchased 2x2pin plugs for the 1-10V dimming lines.
All my data (light times, temps etc.) is usually pre-programmed into the PIC. I will be adding a 4x4 keypad at a later date that will be used to reset time/date, temps, on-off times and also temp high/low alarms. I did also purchase a 16F877 (more I/O's too) controller board as the F628 only 2K of word space and I have already used just over 1700 program words.
I like your idea of the interlock. It's a wise decision. Do you ever do a CRC check on the 1-wire data? I wrote a routine to calculate its the CRC using a look-up table that is stored in a 256 byte I2C EEPROM. That's one way to confirm that the data has not been corrupted. I haven't used it in this little project (running out of code space!) but I'll include it in the F877 controller for sure.
I never noticed those pic controller boards on futurlec before, I've been playing with straight pics which of course requires board making as well - a real pain. This is a much simpler way to go.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bald_noggin
The 16F88 has 7kb memory in an 18 pin package, perhaps you can plug one into your board to save replacing the lot? if your in anywhere near me in Melb I can lend one to you to try if you like.
What software/compiler are you using to program with - PIC-C, PICBASIC etc?
My relay board from futurlec used inverse logic eg 0 = on 1 = off So does that mean when you disconnect the PIC the outputs turn on ? It's not like the inputs are high impedance and float high when not connected. In my case I installed 1wire digital output chips thus never really tested the board AS STANDARD with TTL inputs. At this stage I do not know what I would switch with AC power, (maybe reservoir heater a couple of hours before water change) as my lights are on a standard timer. I will switch on a moon light however this will be a low voltage 12 or 24 VDC.
I think for inductive loads (ie ballasts) the current draw is approx 7x that of rated wattage. Heaters and the like are OK. So be careful not to exceed the rated current through the triacs.
FOR OTHERS READING THIS POST DO NOT ATTEMPT TO SWITCH MAINS AC POWER UNLESS YOU KNOW WHAT YOUR DOING. AS A DIY'er YOU MAY KNOW THE DANGER HOWEVER IS THE FINAL SOLUTION SAFE FOR THE FAMILY or OTHERS IF YOUR NOT THERE ?
Yes the 16F88 does have 7K of code space (and is a drop in replacement) but is still limited on input and output pins. I could use a PCF8574 to increase I/O throught the I2C bus but that will start to slow things down a little. There are also a few limitations with the futurlec boards such as with the F628, you can't really use PORT B 4 as it is used as the PGM pin for low volatage programming. As it turns out, I don't use the LVP so I pull it out and use my XELTEK chip programmer. If you PM your email address, I'll send you a copy of both F628 and F877 manuals that come with them on CD.
The software I use is Oshonsoft PIC IDE. Check it out at www.oshonsoft.com It's a pretty good program and has virtual LCD, oscilliscope etc and is cheap as chips. I think the personal licence cost 19 euro's. You can download a demo and use it for 30 days. Other than I2C, 1 wire and some other devices, you can write your code and test it within the IDE. Even the simple 'Hello World!' can be written and tested within the IDE program and if it works on their, it should work on the real thing!
Hello World Sample:
DEFINE LCD_BITS = 8
DEFINE LCD_DREG = PORTB
DEFINE LCD_DBIT = 0
DEFINE LCD_RSREG = PORTA
DEFINE LCD_RSBIT = 0
DEFINE LCD_EREG = PORTA
DEFINE LCD_EBIT = 1
DEFINE LCD_RWREG = PORTA
DEFINE LCD_RWBIT = 2
LCDINIT LcdCurBlink
loop:
LCDOUT "Hello world!"
WAITMS 1000
LCDCMDOUT LcdClear
WAITMS 1000
GOTO loop
Simple hey?
It also supports Software UART, Hardware UART, SPI just name a few.
The T5 ballasts are fully electronic and the power consumption specs for the 2x54Watt are 121 Watts and they have a power factor of 0.99. It shouldn't be a problem but I will also double check.
I'd like to also reinforce Bad Inferno's message: FOR OTHERS READING THIS POST DO NOT ATTEMPT TO SWITCH MAINS AC POWER UNLESS YOU KNOW WHAT YOUR DOING.
If you have any questions, let us know and we can help to guide you.
CRC error checking is done with 1wire and owfs suit. Its got a really cool page that shows various error counters, number of packets transfered etc etc. My use of two actions to turn a solenoid ON maybe misguided however when I first started to play with 1wire a year ago, one of my A/D chip parameters would "magically" turn off maybe every 2 weeks..It only happened a couple of times and never again however better to be safe.
For those knowing owfs I would not use the "fuse" file system. Just use the owread & owwrite commands directly in a script. very easy and less overhead required on the NSLU2.
ON another topic.......I was always wanting to earth my tank. I believe you can get a titanium (?) probe to place in your tank and run it to earth stake. Something about stray currents from your heater. I know from my ph knowledge the solution should be grounded however my pH reading is very stable, what do you think ?
rob
BN Ever seen something like this. I would like to find a purpose biult 240VAC plugboard that was either ethernet or serial.
http://www.monitors-direct.co.uk/Pro...ProductID=1157
The site also has a list of controller functions for the unit. I was interested in the floro burn in..Didn't know you had to burn in lights Whats the go !