BI,
Help please!!
I'm trying to load the owfs-feed.conf into the /etc/ipkg directory but I can't access the admin section off the drive through network neighbourhood.
Any ideas?
I need this to use ipkg install owfs
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BI,
Help please!!
I'm trying to load the owfs-feed.conf into the /etc/ipkg directory but I can't access the admin section off the drive through network neighbourhood.
Any ideas?
I need this to use ipkg install owfs
Hmm, TUX as an avatar but 'never' really seen Linux huh, :wink:
Don't know too much about the slug but I use WinSCP for copying files to my OpenWRT box. WinSCP is free to use and downloadable at http://winscp.net/. Much faster and easier to use than the MS-way. It looks like WinCommander from the past and has two panes which makes is easy to drag files from your pc to the slug. For a console I use PuTTY, also free. Isn't Linux great :lol:
That sums it up!Quote:
Originally Posted by C4Vette
I have used linux before but very limited CLI usage and more the GUI packages such as Ubuntu and Debian. As you would know, these packages set everything up for you. There is no requirement to use the CLI to set the ethernet up and to get other devices going by installing the packages.
What was casuing my problem was the fact I could see the directories through my network neighbourhood, but I did't have the permissions to write the files to the /etc/ipkg directory.
After a little headbanging, I remembered that you have to be logged in as ROOT to have the permissions to write there.
I also have PuTTY installed and it was through this that I managed to sort things out. Once I remembered the ls, cp and cd commands every thing worked. It's all sweet now.......for the time being at least. :lol:
I do hope you understand I was just kidding around :oops: and wish things work out for you. I'm no guru myself and learning by doing and reading great topics like this one. Hopefully we hear more from your project and we can help each other.
greetz, Ed
No harm done C4Vette :D
I pretty much well learn the same way. I've been pulling things apart since I was about 5 years old to also learn how things work!!
I have downloaded WinSCP and yes, it is a lot easier than the MS and CLI way. I will, without doubt, be using it if I get stuck again trying to use the CLI to move/copy files. Thanks for the tip!
Cheers,
Col.
BN...How are you going ? Do you have OWFS installed yet. ? there was an update to the script I had put forward that had a couple of typo's.
Well, my system is up and running (as far as lights are concerned).
Preparation for light panel (before)
http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...2/IMG_2724.jpg
Electronic Ballasts removed
http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...2/IMG_2745.jpg
Preparing tools:
http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...2/IMG_2747.jpg
http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...2/IMG_2723.jpg
New light panel with my own "light control unit"
http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...2/IMG_2748.jpg
All wires are nicely placed in a hidden compartment.
http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...2/IMG_2750.jpg
http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...2/IMG_2751.jpg
Wich looks like this (you see the bottom heater cable running here)
http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...2/IMG_2753.jpg
And this is how it looks when it is all closed.
http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...2/IMG_2754.jpg
The computer which only used 15 watts of power
http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...2/IMG_2756.jpg
Preparation for connecting the computer to the HUB which in its turn controls the 1-wire network:
http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...2/IMG_2757.jpg
Re-attaching wires:
http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...2/IMG_2760.jpg
http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...2/IMG_2761.jpg
http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...2/IMG_2762.jpg
****, wires to short....
http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...2/IMG_2763.jpg
Prevent wires from pulling to much on the ballast:
http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...2/IMG_2764.jpg
The bottom part of my electronics is (visually) finished:
http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...2/IMG_2765.jpg
Adding some juice to the network:
http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...2/IMG_2766.jpg
HUB:
http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...2/IMG_2767.jpg
Lights in action:
http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...2/IMG_2768.jpg
Maintenance by a student which i hired to do all the tiny stuff (like soldering 220 volts ikes!)
http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...2/IMG_2797.jpg
http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u...2/IMG_2799.jpg
So i have been running my 6 lights now for about 1 month without any problems. Next up is construction in my own house (i get the key tomorrow). When the aquarium is moved, i'll start on the PH, temp and dosing pumps.
:D Nice work Gilles! :D
One of the great things about electronics is that you are usually limited only by your imagination.
I take it by looking at the photo's, they are dimming ballasts?
What's the specs on the little computer?
For your dosing pump, have you made something DIY or are you using a commerical product?
Sorry for all the Q's...
Cheers,
Col.
Thanx for your reply; here are the answers:Quote:
Originally Posted by Bald_noggin
Yes, dimming ballasts, 100% - 1%. The 1-wire chip sends 0-255 steps to the network. Then, there is some smart stuff integrated onto the PCB which i did not invent.. hehe It turns off the power to the ballast if the voltage comes below 1v. (e.g. less then the minimum dim power). This way, it does not cost me any relais.
The little computer is this one:
http://www.microclient.nl/images/sto...ientTTZero.jpg
Specs:
CPU: VIA C3 533 MHz
Memory: 512 MB 133 MHz SD-RAM
Slot: 1x PCI with riser
IDE: 1x IDE with convertor for Compact Flash (unfortunately, no DMA)
LAN: 1x 100 Mbit LAN onboard (bootable)
Video: Onboard Trident VGA 8 MB, max 1600x1200
Sound: Onboard sound, speaker/mic
I/O: 2xPS/2 2xUSB1.0 (bootable) 2xCOM 1xLPT
Dimensions: 5x23x21 cm (hxwxd)
Weight: 1,7 kg
Power usage: 15 Watt
For storage i use a 1gig CF card. Which makes it 100% noiseless.
As for dosing; i was going for a DIY, but then i found 1.5l/hour pumps which only cost 40$. Complete with housing etc. This means ~0.5ml/sec.
Well you can compare them with Aquamedic SP3000, they almost look thesame:
http://www.erdingtonaquatics.com/aquamedic/SP3000.jpg
All that is left for me to do is:
- Make the PH and ORP/Conductivity unit.
- Connect the 8-port relais (4x = dosing, 3x heating (2 tubes, 1 bottom heater), 1x CO2 valve)
- Start monitoring temps
There will also be a new kinda "hub" which can connect "floaters" (you know, those things which monitor water level).
http://www.rainforest-frogs.nl/shop/...er-120x120.jpg
Using that, i can detect low water/high water and use the PC speaker to alert me (since the canopy is closed).
Nice work, very impressive... How much are the dimable ballast's ?
When you get to monitor via rrdtools suggest you only update every so often as the CF card has limited writes.
rob
@Bad_Inferno: Good point. Do you allready have failing CF cards?
The ballasts where 15$ each (using connections @ Philips Lightning). New and unused hehe... I calculate the light sequence using MySQL every night at 24:00 once for all lights for the upcomming day.
I know there was some talk about this on the NSLU2/SLUG forums. I am not at the tech level to understand how to limit linux disk access. I am sure there is help on the net on using CF and limiting disk access on the linux distro you are using. I just use a small laptop drive.
Great job, that many lights you could create a DISCO sequence :)
I know for the NSLU-2/Linux, there are some answers on how to reduce the amount of read/writes to your storage medium. It does also mention that you are better off using a HDD as opposed to flash memory as flash does not last as long with many read-write cycles. I think it is in their wiki or FAQ.
:shock: $15 a piece for the ballasts !! :shock: I should be talking to you mate, buddy, pal, friend!!!! :lol:
I did the same with my PIC based dimming system. It uses DS2890 100K Ohm digital pots (1-WIRE!!!). Only problem was, ballast dimming is logrithmic, digi pots are linear so I had to work out the correct value with a formula. It's somewhere else in this post.
I will eventually port all of the PIC based system over to a linux based set-up.
That's a good price on the dosing pumps. I eventually want to add these to my system as well. The plan is to use them to dose ferts about an hour before lights on so it has a good chance to mix with all the tank water.
Again, great work mate!
This thread has been too quiet, what are people up to with respect to tank monitoring ? A lightning strike in December took out my telstra modem/router/ethernet port of my server and my 1wire network. So its taken a little while to get it back online its 90% back up and runsing.
Last year I did an update to the web interface. The gauges, for those that are a little web savy should be able to duplicate them as my code is documented.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...ay/2009web.jpg
www.rjconway.homeip.net
rob
Completed a new 8 channel relay mounted onto 4mm perspex plate. It looks alittle complicated however it really allows easy connection of the tank devices and also distributes the 12VDC power.
From Left to Right
1wire interface - Relay boards (double decker) ATO float relay and light actuator relay - terminals
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...irerelay-2.jpg
You can see I had to mount the two relay boards ontop of one another
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...irerelay-1.jpg
Under the 1wire controller I ahve mounted the refugium LED constant current power supply. This supply enables up to four 3W LED's to be driven.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...irerelay-3.jpg
AC Power Control
I required only two 1wire controlled AC powered devices. One being the main light the other the heater. I debated for quite a while in how best to acheive this in the safest way however deviced to simply use two good quality 12V relays inside a small box. These relays are controlled via the 1wire relay isolators on the main interface. above And yes there are now two relays controlling these outlets however all AC wiring is contained within the small box.
The heater needed to be normally ON thus without power to the relay the outlet is ON. That way if the controller fails the heater will be on, as it has its own thermostat, it will function as normal. The reason I wanted to be able to power off the heater was so that I can better regulate temperature on hot days. I did not want the heater fighting against the cooling fan when the tank temp was low. That way on hot days, ambient >26 I can just use fan control to regulate the tank temperature and turn off the heater.
The other outlet is simply the main light. Powering on the relay will turn the lights on.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...irepower-2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...irepower-1.jpg
Where did you find the dosing pumps?Quote:
Originally Posted by Gilles
How have they worked out for you?
ta