auto water change chlorine remover

[random-cichlid]

Hey guys and gals so i am about to venture in to setting up my breeding stands and i am curious to what u guys are using to remove the Chlorine and Chloramine.
With out going ro.
My water i fell is fairly decent it comes out of the tap with a ph of 7 and its fairly soft.
So the only thing i am really trying to achieve is the removal of those 2 additives that being the chlorine etc.
In your opinion should i still go ro i do plan on breeding discus i am currently growing out 7 discus atm i shall post some pics soon just not sure were to post them on this forum and planning on getting another lot of adults
from Jeffrey yangs stock.
I was Planning to have a 400lt water storage for all the water changes on the racks, or should i go from the main water line
With this being said i am here asking advice and for some ideas of what your set-ups are like and what u have found works for you
Sorry for the grammar and lack of punctuation i have had a couple of beers admiring my fish :oops:

[brad_v]

Don't need RO if other water qualities are ok. Just sediment and carbon filter if you want to go from tap without chemicals. RO filter would still use these before the membrane, just don't have the waste.

[random-cichlid]

cheers what would be the most efficient way of achieving this goal does any one else run from there mains straight in to there tanks.
Or do u guys prefer water storage say 400lt at a time so it gasses out all the Chlorine by 48 hours

[Nev]

Chlorine will gas out but chloramine is much more persistent and needs to be neutralized also.

[swifto]

yes i use to do water changers straight from the tape to tank a 100ltr at a time,but now store a 100ltr for changers (24hr) max.

[Hooked]

Hi random,

I use to fill 20lt buckets from the tap, bit of hot and cold, add prime, add ph down, wait about 20mins then add to tank. Just enough time to have a beer. The fish seemed happy. But my fish never layed eggs or seemed interested in each other. Oh yeah my ph was about 6.8 to 7ish.

I now use 220lt drums. I put 3 teaspoons of Seachem acid buffer in, a small amount of Supa Chlor to remove chloramines etc and use a small "mouse" type aerator to give it a mix for about 2 days. I've got fry at the moment so the barrels are lucky to get 1 day when the display water is being changed as well.

I followed some good advice to really try to be consistent with my ph levels and changes. I did this for a couple of months. Noticed my fish starting to become interested in each other then lowered my ph to the low 6's. Then they started laying.

A good tip I picked up from Illusn is to use Hydrochloric acid to lower the ph instead of expensive additives like the Seachem stuff. When my acid buffer runs out I'm going to give it a try.... very carefully of course.

I think RO is a waste of water and money. A lot goes to waste back flushing the membranes. Having said that I have not been in an area of super hard water that would require it. Getting the water soft with RO is great but then there are not any minerals in the water that growing fish need.

There are people here that breed in high ph ranges. They were consistent and their fish adjusted.

I only ever use carbon to remove meds but might now look into it along with a sediment filter after brad_v's advice.

All the best mate. I've only just started breeding. Its very rewarding but sucks a lot of time and effort out of your day. If you come up with any good time saving tips, please let us know,

Cheers

[random-cichlid]

Hi random,

I use to fill 20lt buckets from the tap, bit of hot and cold, add prime, add ph down, wait about 20mins then add to tank. Just enough time to have a beer. The fish seemed happy. But my fish never layed eggs or seemed interested in each other. Oh yeah my ph was about 6.8 to 7ish.

I now use 220lt drums. I put 3 teaspoons of Seachem acid buffer in, a small amount of Supa Chlor to remove chloramines etc and use a small "mouse" type aerator to give it a mix for about 2 days. I've got fry at the moment so the barrels are lucky to get 1 day when the display water is being changed as well.

I followed some good advice to really try to be consistent with my ph levels and changes. I did this for a couple of months. Noticed my fish starting to become interested in each other then lowered my ph to the low 6's. Then they started laying.

A good tip I picked up from Illusn is to use Hydrochloric acid to lower the ph instead of expensive additives like the Seachem stuff. When my acid buffer runs out I'm going to give it a try.... very carefully of course.

I think RO is a waste of water and money. A lot goes to waste back flushing the membranes. Having said that I have not been in an area of super hard water that would require it. Getting the water soft with RO is great but then there are not any minerals in the water that growing fish need.

There are people here that breed in high ph ranges. They were consistent and their fish adjusted.

I only ever use carbon to remove meds but might now look into it along with a sediment filter after brad_v's advice.

All the best mate. I've only just started breeding. Its very rewarding but sucks a lot of time and effort out of your day. If you come up with any good time saving tips, please let us know,

Cheers


like wise mate i have decided on a 1000lt storage container connected via a heavy metal filter and carbon filter connected directly to the mains.
i still need to work out how i am going to plumb all my tanks thou i dont want to really change water so i think ill have bulkheads at the top of the tanks so i can pump fresh water in twice a day or something and then waste water will go thru bulkheads straight to the grey-water tanks for the fruit trees and animals. .
I still havnt worked it all out properly yet thou i reckon my main issue will be winter