Hassles
Mon Jul 19, 2010, 10:56 AM
My perspective & approach on keeping & breeding Apistogramma.
Firstly I think it's important to realise that I don't breed fish, I just provide the environment. Once provided with that environment Apistogramma will engage in that which is God's design.
'My' Set-ups:
Tanks:
I started my Apistogramma addiction, like many others, with standard 2-foot tanks eg: 2 foot x 1 foot x 1 foot or 600x300x300mm holding 50 litres of water. Now while this size tank is common for breeding many Apistogramma species that doesn't mean that its ideal (I wouldn't want to see anyone attempting to breed A.steindachneri in such confined quarters). I much prefer my 750x400x300 ninety litre tanks. I have on occassion employed an 18 inch tank. I have had many spawns in each tank size. Utilising such sized tanks (small) usually demands the segregation of the parents once the fry are free swimming. Many Apistogramma breeders will remove the male after the fry emerge regardless of the circumstances as this is the only way they can ensure no harm will come to him. As Apistogramma are bottom dwellers one does not require a great depth while the bottom surface area is more important. None of my Apisto tanks are more than 300mm high. The use of cover-glass is important to keep in the heat, reduce evaporation and to prevent fish from jumping out of the tank. You will not have to pick up too many of your prized Apistos from the carpet before you have all your cover-glass re-cut to minimise gaps - believe me. Get yourself 4mm cover-glass, 3mm is too easily broken.
Filters:
I am an advocate of air-driven filtration because they are affordable to run (I am environmentally concious) and they are effective. A lot (8) of my Apisto tanks have an "Aqua Genie" filter, most of the others have sponge filters. I employ small cannister filters on tanks with high stock densities (grow-out tanks). One interesting attribute about sponge filters is that fry can often feed upon them. I am also of the opinion that Apistogramma do not generally enjoy strong water currents. Note: The Australian designed "Aqua Genie" filters are no longer available and have been replaced with a HOB type filter. I once run a 250 litre tank on a single Aqua-Genie. These filters are in four 90 litre tanks and four 50 litre tanks. I love them.
Substrate:
In a majority of my tanks I employ basic gravel. Sand however is used for species that would normally exist in environments where sand would be present. Many Apistos "chew sand" and as such these species should be provided with a sand substrate. If you want to get your PH down it is important to know if the substrate will influence water chemistry. Test your tap water to determine the PH. Place some substrate in a jar of water and test the PH a week later to see the results. To keep Apistogramma successfully you need to be in control of the water chemistry.
Other - Rocks, driftwood and plants:
Plants generally consist of java fern, anubias and moss, basically anything that can be attached to rocks or driftwood. Why? because you can easily pull it all out for a serious tank clean or to catch those juveniles your chasing. Plants ain't gonna do well in gravel or sand so choosing those that can be attached makes my life easier. Oh yeah, water sprite floats in most of my Apisto tanks. It provides places for fish to hide, makes the fish feel more comfortable and will absorb some nitrates from the water. I don't like water sprite but it grows like a weed and serves a purpose so I use it. Your fish must feel secure otherwise they will feel insecure which equals stress which leads to death.
A majority of my driftwood is in fact eucalyptus collected on my bush-walking trips. This has generally been soaked in a drum for 6 to 9 months. If I require a blackwater environment the wood will be boiled for a short period (to ensure any nasties that may be present are killed) before being placed into the tank. I have never had trouble using Eucalyptus with my Apistos. Just about all of my catfish (ancistrus & loricariidae) of which there have been many, have been raised with Eucalyptus timbers in their tank including large hollowed limbs the size of my leg.
Any rocks with an interesting shape are readily carried home. I have had many apistos deposit their eggs on indentations of the rock or driftwood in preference to caves I have provided. Note: by placing a few drops on vinegar onto the rocks one can ascertain whether or not the rocks will influence water chemistry. If the vinegar bubbles a little, don't use the rocks. Obviously the combination of rocks, driftwood and plants all contribute to the complexity of the environment and complexity is what we need to provide to ensure the fish will be comfortable eg: feel safe and secure. I generally don't use rocks with any sharp edges or I find myself reaching for the Melafix.
Water:
Generally the tap water here in Melbourne is close enough to neutral and it will readily drop to PH 6 after some weeks so its a simple matter to get the parameters I need. I was in fact quite shocked two weeks ago to discover the PH values had risen almost to 8. So, my base water is generally great. I employ filtered water, Oak tree leaves, Indian Almond leaves and Peat to varying degrees. Filtered water makes life very simple and this is how I managed to get my PH below 5 for the Apistogramma huascar. As this specie does not like the presence of humic acids in the water the use of leaves, peat, un-boiled wood or blackwater extract to lower the PH was not an option. With filtered water I can basically get the water parameters I want and that the fish need. Note: $300 will buy you an excellent RO (reverse osmosis) filtration system. Understanding the influence of Peat upon the water chemistry will greatly enhance your options with regard to keeping soft & blackwater species. Once armed with such equipment and knowledge you can basically keep and breed any Apistogramma specie you desire!!!
Maintenance:
I am most definitely not anal about tank maintenance and or water changes. I keep the tanks free of debris (eg: uneaten food or rotting vegetation etc). I generally heat water before water exchange unless the exchange is minor. I do less maintenance in tanks where fry exist but compensate when they are more developed and by my own reckoning I change less water than many other Apisto keepers on this forum. If it ain't broke don't fix it!
Food & Feeding:
The foods I employ include Hikari, New Life Spectrum, Wardleys, Tetra and Nutrafin. Other foods include live, Blackworm, mosquito larvae, freeze-dried blackworm, frozen shrimp and earthworms. Most of the fry are raised on microworms although I have begun using 'fry-starter' and green water for small fry. I like to place a small piece of slate into the corners of my tanks upon which I drop the food. It is then easy to see any uneaten food and equally easy to siphon out any leftovers. Note: by placing a few drops on vinegar onto the slate one can ascertain whether or not the slate will influence water chemistry. If the vinegar bubbles a little, don't use the slate. Sodden Indian Almond leaves can also be used for dropping food onto when such leaves are required. Note: do not feed aquatic worms (eg: blackworms) more than a few times a week.
Heating:
Most tanks are maintained at 25 to 26 degrees C while others are a little lower. My trifasciata tanks have ossicilating temperatures varied between 24 and 27. Any aquarium heater will do the job and I "always" have spare heaters on-hand.
Courtship:
The courtship between a pair of Apistogramma is a delight to witness and is among the many Apistogramma traits that endear them to their keepers. The female will become golden/yellow and 'usually' instigate the proceedings and at times it may take a protracted period for the male to 'catch on to the game' as it were. As the "shimmying" these fish engage in when courting can be compared to the actions when acting aggressively, trouble can arise if the male misconstrues these signals. As the male is larger than the female, if he gets the wrong message some dramas may unfold. If however you have provided a complex environment, any fish wanting or needing to find refuge may do so and you may avert an undesirable conclusion.
Breeding:
Dither fish are wisely employed by breeders of Apistogramma as this will often prevent the Apistogramma fighting among themselves. I favour some Pencilfish species but have used black neons successfully. I raise all of my Apistos with one - or both parents where possible. I do this because I don't want the fish to breed any more frequently than they do. I have enough fish to deal with as it is and I have no desire to increase the yeilds.
Medications:
Melafix is always at hand should it be needed and as treating the tank for gill flukes and or worms is such a breeze with the available medications these days I won't hesitate to do so with the slightest indication that it may be necessary. I treat some species for worms twice a year regardless. ALWAYS follow instructions and water change appropriately afterwards. I have been known to employ UV filters when decidedly concerned or ignorant to the source of the problem. I obtained an array of medications shortly after commencing my fish keeping and as I didn't want to 'need' any medications I have always kept these on-hand. Be aware of the use by dates of any medications you purchase.
In summary, I provide the required environment and once provided - I don't mess with it much. I do seriously believe that my base water is a major contributor to the breeding successes I have witnessed. Diet is another and my fish get fed quite a varied diet from shrimp pellets, live blackworms, a number of dried and frozen foods and mosquito larvae but.....I never feed them Bloodworm.
The best advice I can give you is this. Be very very observant as experience will be your best teacher. There are no hard and fast rules set in concrete that govern Apistogramma behaviour. The character of an individual fish can lead to some decidedly "untypical" behaviour. Males are not generally known to engage in brood care but this does occasionally happen. Females will occasionally tolerate the presence of the male in close quarters but this is not typical. Apistogramma will never steadily occupy a place high in the water column or in a corner of a tank unless stressed. Stress kills fish and if you observe such, rehouse the fish or chalk it up to experience. I am still learning and won't hesitate to seek advice when needed from those who know more than I, and such people are many.
So now that you've read this what's left? You still have some unanswered questions? some knowledge you still seek? Some things perhaps you don't quite understand? I can teach you many things but I cannot teach you experience, this you must acquire on your own and during the process you will learn more about Apistogramma than anyone can teach you. Be patient, be observant and begin to comprehend why we love Apistogramma so much.
Take care & best of luck
regards
Glenn aka hassles
Firstly I think it's important to realise that I don't breed fish, I just provide the environment. Once provided with that environment Apistogramma will engage in that which is God's design.
'My' Set-ups:
Tanks:
I started my Apistogramma addiction, like many others, with standard 2-foot tanks eg: 2 foot x 1 foot x 1 foot or 600x300x300mm holding 50 litres of water. Now while this size tank is common for breeding many Apistogramma species that doesn't mean that its ideal (I wouldn't want to see anyone attempting to breed A.steindachneri in such confined quarters). I much prefer my 750x400x300 ninety litre tanks. I have on occassion employed an 18 inch tank. I have had many spawns in each tank size. Utilising such sized tanks (small) usually demands the segregation of the parents once the fry are free swimming. Many Apistogramma breeders will remove the male after the fry emerge regardless of the circumstances as this is the only way they can ensure no harm will come to him. As Apistogramma are bottom dwellers one does not require a great depth while the bottom surface area is more important. None of my Apisto tanks are more than 300mm high. The use of cover-glass is important to keep in the heat, reduce evaporation and to prevent fish from jumping out of the tank. You will not have to pick up too many of your prized Apistos from the carpet before you have all your cover-glass re-cut to minimise gaps - believe me. Get yourself 4mm cover-glass, 3mm is too easily broken.
Filters:
I am an advocate of air-driven filtration because they are affordable to run (I am environmentally concious) and they are effective. A lot (8) of my Apisto tanks have an "Aqua Genie" filter, most of the others have sponge filters. I employ small cannister filters on tanks with high stock densities (grow-out tanks). One interesting attribute about sponge filters is that fry can often feed upon them. I am also of the opinion that Apistogramma do not generally enjoy strong water currents. Note: The Australian designed "Aqua Genie" filters are no longer available and have been replaced with a HOB type filter. I once run a 250 litre tank on a single Aqua-Genie. These filters are in four 90 litre tanks and four 50 litre tanks. I love them.
Substrate:
In a majority of my tanks I employ basic gravel. Sand however is used for species that would normally exist in environments where sand would be present. Many Apistos "chew sand" and as such these species should be provided with a sand substrate. If you want to get your PH down it is important to know if the substrate will influence water chemistry. Test your tap water to determine the PH. Place some substrate in a jar of water and test the PH a week later to see the results. To keep Apistogramma successfully you need to be in control of the water chemistry.
Other - Rocks, driftwood and plants:
Plants generally consist of java fern, anubias and moss, basically anything that can be attached to rocks or driftwood. Why? because you can easily pull it all out for a serious tank clean or to catch those juveniles your chasing. Plants ain't gonna do well in gravel or sand so choosing those that can be attached makes my life easier. Oh yeah, water sprite floats in most of my Apisto tanks. It provides places for fish to hide, makes the fish feel more comfortable and will absorb some nitrates from the water. I don't like water sprite but it grows like a weed and serves a purpose so I use it. Your fish must feel secure otherwise they will feel insecure which equals stress which leads to death.
A majority of my driftwood is in fact eucalyptus collected on my bush-walking trips. This has generally been soaked in a drum for 6 to 9 months. If I require a blackwater environment the wood will be boiled for a short period (to ensure any nasties that may be present are killed) before being placed into the tank. I have never had trouble using Eucalyptus with my Apistos. Just about all of my catfish (ancistrus & loricariidae) of which there have been many, have been raised with Eucalyptus timbers in their tank including large hollowed limbs the size of my leg.
Any rocks with an interesting shape are readily carried home. I have had many apistos deposit their eggs on indentations of the rock or driftwood in preference to caves I have provided. Note: by placing a few drops on vinegar onto the rocks one can ascertain whether or not the rocks will influence water chemistry. If the vinegar bubbles a little, don't use the rocks. Obviously the combination of rocks, driftwood and plants all contribute to the complexity of the environment and complexity is what we need to provide to ensure the fish will be comfortable eg: feel safe and secure. I generally don't use rocks with any sharp edges or I find myself reaching for the Melafix.
Water:
Generally the tap water here in Melbourne is close enough to neutral and it will readily drop to PH 6 after some weeks so its a simple matter to get the parameters I need. I was in fact quite shocked two weeks ago to discover the PH values had risen almost to 8. So, my base water is generally great. I employ filtered water, Oak tree leaves, Indian Almond leaves and Peat to varying degrees. Filtered water makes life very simple and this is how I managed to get my PH below 5 for the Apistogramma huascar. As this specie does not like the presence of humic acids in the water the use of leaves, peat, un-boiled wood or blackwater extract to lower the PH was not an option. With filtered water I can basically get the water parameters I want and that the fish need. Note: $300 will buy you an excellent RO (reverse osmosis) filtration system. Understanding the influence of Peat upon the water chemistry will greatly enhance your options with regard to keeping soft & blackwater species. Once armed with such equipment and knowledge you can basically keep and breed any Apistogramma specie you desire!!!
Maintenance:
I am most definitely not anal about tank maintenance and or water changes. I keep the tanks free of debris (eg: uneaten food or rotting vegetation etc). I generally heat water before water exchange unless the exchange is minor. I do less maintenance in tanks where fry exist but compensate when they are more developed and by my own reckoning I change less water than many other Apisto keepers on this forum. If it ain't broke don't fix it!
Food & Feeding:
The foods I employ include Hikari, New Life Spectrum, Wardleys, Tetra and Nutrafin. Other foods include live, Blackworm, mosquito larvae, freeze-dried blackworm, frozen shrimp and earthworms. Most of the fry are raised on microworms although I have begun using 'fry-starter' and green water for small fry. I like to place a small piece of slate into the corners of my tanks upon which I drop the food. It is then easy to see any uneaten food and equally easy to siphon out any leftovers. Note: by placing a few drops on vinegar onto the slate one can ascertain whether or not the slate will influence water chemistry. If the vinegar bubbles a little, don't use the slate. Sodden Indian Almond leaves can also be used for dropping food onto when such leaves are required. Note: do not feed aquatic worms (eg: blackworms) more than a few times a week.
Heating:
Most tanks are maintained at 25 to 26 degrees C while others are a little lower. My trifasciata tanks have ossicilating temperatures varied between 24 and 27. Any aquarium heater will do the job and I "always" have spare heaters on-hand.
Courtship:
The courtship between a pair of Apistogramma is a delight to witness and is among the many Apistogramma traits that endear them to their keepers. The female will become golden/yellow and 'usually' instigate the proceedings and at times it may take a protracted period for the male to 'catch on to the game' as it were. As the "shimmying" these fish engage in when courting can be compared to the actions when acting aggressively, trouble can arise if the male misconstrues these signals. As the male is larger than the female, if he gets the wrong message some dramas may unfold. If however you have provided a complex environment, any fish wanting or needing to find refuge may do so and you may avert an undesirable conclusion.
Breeding:
Dither fish are wisely employed by breeders of Apistogramma as this will often prevent the Apistogramma fighting among themselves. I favour some Pencilfish species but have used black neons successfully. I raise all of my Apistos with one - or both parents where possible. I do this because I don't want the fish to breed any more frequently than they do. I have enough fish to deal with as it is and I have no desire to increase the yeilds.
Medications:
Melafix is always at hand should it be needed and as treating the tank for gill flukes and or worms is such a breeze with the available medications these days I won't hesitate to do so with the slightest indication that it may be necessary. I treat some species for worms twice a year regardless. ALWAYS follow instructions and water change appropriately afterwards. I have been known to employ UV filters when decidedly concerned or ignorant to the source of the problem. I obtained an array of medications shortly after commencing my fish keeping and as I didn't want to 'need' any medications I have always kept these on-hand. Be aware of the use by dates of any medications you purchase.
In summary, I provide the required environment and once provided - I don't mess with it much. I do seriously believe that my base water is a major contributor to the breeding successes I have witnessed. Diet is another and my fish get fed quite a varied diet from shrimp pellets, live blackworms, a number of dried and frozen foods and mosquito larvae but.....I never feed them Bloodworm.
The best advice I can give you is this. Be very very observant as experience will be your best teacher. There are no hard and fast rules set in concrete that govern Apistogramma behaviour. The character of an individual fish can lead to some decidedly "untypical" behaviour. Males are not generally known to engage in brood care but this does occasionally happen. Females will occasionally tolerate the presence of the male in close quarters but this is not typical. Apistogramma will never steadily occupy a place high in the water column or in a corner of a tank unless stressed. Stress kills fish and if you observe such, rehouse the fish or chalk it up to experience. I am still learning and won't hesitate to seek advice when needed from those who know more than I, and such people are many.
So now that you've read this what's left? You still have some unanswered questions? some knowledge you still seek? Some things perhaps you don't quite understand? I can teach you many things but I cannot teach you experience, this you must acquire on your own and during the process you will learn more about Apistogramma than anyone can teach you. Be patient, be observant and begin to comprehend why we love Apistogramma so much.
Take care & best of luck
regards
Glenn aka hassles