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  1. #11
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    It's not as bad s you'd think, basicly i just take it outside and up end it ito a 20L bucket and give the media a quick once over with a bucket or 2 of tank water.

    as the media is matrix it washes clean easy, with sand its much harder, hence the switch to matrix.

  2. #12
    Hi, I'm New Here!
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    For 30 $ it must be worth building this.

    About the media, could other media work just as good?

  3. #13
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    Any media will work i just use matrix because its maintanace free, you could use any media that sinks, scoria would work well and costs nothing ($8 for 20L) but it will take forever to wash clean.

  4. #14
    Larvae
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    May 2009
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    warwick Australia
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    Hey Jothy

    awesome idea mate!! do you think this would work if i plumbed it up to my fluval404 outlet that is rigged up to that new max mix c02. will the co2 hurt the matrix in the pipe filter???

    Tia Justin
    THE DISCUS DISEASE SYMPTOMS SEEM TO BE SITTING IN FRONT OF TANK FOR HRS ON END!!!

    REALLY WEIRD FOR AN ADDRENALIN JUNKY!!!

  5. #15
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    MATRIX is volcanic rock its inert and wont be hurt by CO2. you could hook it up to the outlet of your fluval if you wanted to, the fluval would work as an excellent prefilter.

    the only problem is as water tunbels out of the pipe filter it will loos co2 if it breaks the waters surface. to get around this add a short length of 40mm pipe from the exit of the pipe filter below the surface of the tank, just like my big filter.

  6. #16
    Larvae
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    warwick Australia
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    Awesome

    here we go!! Bio capacity is about to ski rocket
    Thanks Justin
    THE DISCUS DISEASE SYMPTOMS SEEM TO BE SITTING IN FRONT OF TANK FOR HRS ON END!!!

    REALLY WEIRD FOR AN ADDRENALIN JUNKY!!!

  7. #17
    Free Swimmer
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    Jun 2010
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    Melbourne, SE Suburbs
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    An alternative...short fat FBF?

    I've been pondering this approach for some time - to me it seems an excellent (and cost effective) way of improving filtration capacity.

    Sure its easy (but expensive) to simply add another canister, but that brings with it additional flow to disperse in the tank.

    On the other hand, driving this style of filter off its own pump gives redundancy and perhaps lowers cost, but doesn't address the flow. And to be honest, I really don't like the idea of a meter of stormwater pipe taking up residence in the lounge. . .which caused me to ponder more.

    Am I correct in thinking that the pump is really only needed to lift the water to the tank and its primarily the extra volume of filter media that provides the benefit, rather than the way its arranged (vertically)?

    My current thought is to use similar principles to this design, but using a 15lt screw top water-tight food-safe container (costs $17) that would fit in my cabinet. By removing the tap bung I could plumb the "spray bar" in the bottom, connected to the outflow from the tank. I could then use some filter sponge in bottom and top with other media sandwiched in between. A through-hull fitting from BCF would be the top outlet.

    The siphon-effect would draw water from the tank, through a pre-filter (e.g. sponge in a short section of 90mm pipe), then to the FBF. Upon exiting the FBF it would flow into my canister filter for a final filter before being pumped back into the tank.

    Would this a) work and b) provide a significant improvement in filtration?

    As far as FBF filter media, I expect I'd need something heavier than sand as I don't have gravity working as well as it would in a tower. Perhaps matrix, or even commercial pot scrubbing pads as used in some DIY pond filters.

    Looking forward to your thoguths.

    Cheers,
    Scott

  8. #18
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    A few issues with your concept if you use a siphonic flow into the diy filter you'll have to be doubly sure there are no leaks also if you filter the water before the canister your better off just using mech media and filling the canister with bio media. This brings another issue of cleaning usually it's easier to clean a commercial filter then a diy one. A better approach would be have the water go through the canister first then have the clean water go through your diy filter full of matrix or other biomedia. This way the canister does all the mech filtration and most if the bio filtration in the process it consumes most of the oxygen in the water, your diy filter then finishes the the bio filtration and begins removal of the nitrate. If you have room under your tank your best off using a sump and the using your canister( with bio media only) as a return pump

  9. #19
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    Melbourne, SE Suburbs
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    Quote Originally Posted by ILLUSN
    A few issues with your concept if you use a siphonic flow into the diy filter you'll have to be doubly sure there are no leaks also if you filter the water before the canister your better off just using mech media and filling the canister with bio media. This brings another issue of cleaning usually it's easier to clean a commercial filter then a diy one. A better approach would be have the water go through the canister first then have the clean water go through your diy filter full of matrix or other biomedia. This way the canister does all the mech filtration and most if the bio filtration in the process it consumes most of the oxygen in the water, your diy filter then finishes the the bio filtration and begins removal of the nitrate. If you have room under your tank your best off using a sump and the using your canister( with bio media only) as a return pump
    Thanks for that. Now off to read up on sumps!

    Cheers,
    Scott

  10. #20
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    Apr 2011
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    Its interesting we can build biological filter. So its cheaper and we don't have to spend money to call mechanic to repair it. But I think it will not that much effective. But i will definitely try this one.

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